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The concept of «menswear» or «womenswear» perfume has been feeling inadequate for decades. Niche perfumery always knew it: a fragrance has no gender, the person wearing it does. And there are certain perfumes that demonstrate this better than any argument: they work on any skin, on any body, in any personal story.
These are the eight most popular unisex perfumes at Papaduk. Not just because of their sales, but for something harder to measure: their ability to become a second skin for the wearer.
This perfume unsettles anyone expecting a conventional rose. Rose of Kelaat M'gouna It doesn’t smell like a florist’s shop or toilet soap: it smells of Moroccan Damask rose absolute in a dose that few fragrances dare, with Moroccan Nana mint — a sweet, aromatic variety used in Moroccan tea — that cools the whole composition and gives it an almost mineral character.
The result is a rose that feels moist, almost tactile, like flowers cut in the early hours. Atlas cedar and pink pepper add smoothness and depth without masking the raw material. It works just as well on male skin as on female because its structure is too interesting to belong to a single category.
Named after Jupiter's largest moon, Ganymede It has that kind of presence that feels clean yet hides an unusual complexity. The opening mandarin is bright and juicy, almost electric. The violet softens without becoming powdery. And then the akigalawood arrives: a modern molecule with mineral, smoky and slightly salty facets that turns the fragrance into something completely unique.
The soft leather base with saffron and suede accord leaves an elegant trace on the skin, like well-ironed clothes on well-cared-for skin. It is one of those perfumes that defies description but which whoever tries it always remembers.
If there is a perfume that captures the feeling of a summer sunrise, it is this one. Early Morning it is the olfactory condensation of that moment when the light touches a wet meadow: neroli orange with a green hint, orange blossom that is not sweet but fresh and almost watery, jasmine that adds body without heaviness.
In the background, a white musk and a barely perceptible cedar emerge, which do not disrupt that initial luminosity. It is a fragrance that goes well with any time of day and never offends: it projects discreetly, yet leaves a sillage that people turn around to look for.
Bay Rum is a classic that has deservedly earned its legendary status. Formulated since 1946 in the US Virgin Islands, this fragrance combines Caribbean bay leaf oil with clove, cinnamon, eucalyptus and a hint of basil and thyme that give it an unexpected aromatic liveliness.
The result is somewhere between a classic barber's shop cologne and a tropical men's fragrance: spicy, fresh, with a patchouli and sandalwood base that anchors the whole thing. Whoever wears it exudes a quiet confidence, that of someone who doesn't need to follow trends. Unisex in the best sense: genderless classic.
Nishane works with ingredients tied to specific places in the world, and Ambra Calabria is named after Calabrian ambergris, that oceanic resin that smells of salt, time and depth. The fragrance opens with Italian Calabrian bergamot, bright and with a hint of bitterness that steers clear of the citrus cliché.
The heart is ambergris worked with vetiver and driftwood notes, creating an almost tactile texture, like wet sand warmed by the sun. The marine musk base finishes with an elegance that lingers. It is a unisex fragrance with a very strong identity: it evokes the Mediterranean coast without being obvious.
DS & Durga is the New York brand that turned a fig into a global obsession. Debaser in Bloom is the more floral and fruity version of its most iconic fragrance: the cassette note—that nineties magnetic plastic with a fruity and powdery touch—coexists here with white currant, fresh rosemary, and a creamy gardenia that takes centre stage as it dries down.
The result is a perfume that smells of memories that are not quite your own, but that you recognise somehow. Ripe fruit, juicy white flower, a sweetness that never quite becomes cloying. It works on any skin because it has that abstract quality of great fragrances: difficult to describe, impossible to ignore.
Orphéon is the olfactory portrait of a 1960s Parisian bar where the founders of Diptyque used to gather in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. And it smells exactly like that: green mandarin opening with a citrusy energy, juniper berries with a spicy and almost gin-like touch, and cedarwood providing structure without severity.
At its core, tonka bean envelopes everything with a subtle warmth, and white musk prolongs the sillage in a discreet and sophisticated way. It is one of those fragrances that smells like a specific place and a specific moment, but which anyone can make their own. As an Eau de Toilette, its lightness is perfect for warm weather or as a daytime perfume.
Magico Safrano builds its magic around saffron —that spice which in perfumery can be metallic, earthy, almost medicinal or irresistibly warm— treated here with delicacy so as not to alarm.
The opening combines saffron with a spicy touch of pepper and an oriental rose that gains strength in the heart. The base of oud, sandalwood and amber creates a foundation that lasts for hours on the skin, evolving from spicy to something closer, more intimate. A unisex fragrance that doesn't try to be neutral: it has its own character and displays it with elegance.
The idea that there are «men's» and «women's» perfumes is relatively recent and has more to do with marketing than chemistry. For centuries, great fragrances made no distinction between who wore them.
The eight perfumes on this list share something: they work because they are well made, because they start with quality ingredients and because they have not been designed to please everyone at any cost. That, strangely enough, is what makes them capable of suiting so many different people.
If any of these names resonate with you, the best way to find out is to try it. At Papaduk you can request samples before committing to the full bottle, because we believe a perfume should win you over on your skin, not on paper.
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